Arriving in Venice
Flying into Venice, I received my first culture shock: leaving the airport by water! I took a water taxi from the airport to the hotel. While Venice was packed with tourists for the spring season, our hotel, Pensione Guerrato, was thankfully located in a much more private alley, with a sign right above its door.
I learned from experience (after my flight to Paris was cancelled and I arrived barely in time for my tour in 2018) that I would need to add more time before the beginning of my tour, just in case. Thankfully my flight arrived on schedule and I was able to enjoy exploring Venice on my own before the tour began. |
Pre-Tour Venice Venice was unlike anything I'd ever seen before. Wandering on my own was a delight, walking through narrows streets and enjoying the sights of the gondolas and canals. It felt like some sort of old-world amusement park, a microcosm of history, art, and tourist kitsch. I was charmed by the carnival masks and glass animals in every store window, and colors all around.
I hate to admit that I ran into a little snag before the beginning of the tour, but I want to mention it since it's a moment I won't forget for the rest of my life. That is... finding out while in Venice that I had developed an adult-onset allergy to shellfish. Pictured bottom right you'll see the last time I ate lobster. A pretty picture, but sadly not a very smooth start to my vacation on my first night in Venice. At least I can definitively say I experienced a moment of self discovery while on this trip. Aside from that though, I can assure you that the rest of the journey was an absolute dream! |
Shopping sights in Venice.
The morning after I arrived in Venice, I went to visit the Peggy Guggenheim gallery, an eclectic collection of art of all styles, with a beautiful garden courtyard in the center. In regards to the art and atmosphere, I found that I liked the Guggenheim of Venice quite a bit more than the Guggenheim of New York. Afterward, I had pizza by the water on the southern edge of Venice and then people-watched at a nearby gelateria (I couldn't help but take a photo of a local woman walking her eleven chihuahuas.) Before coming to Italy I had vowed to get a gelato everyday, and can assure you the goal was met.
I ended the second half of the day with a visit to Basilica S.Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, and the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. Looking at these pictures now I only just realized that the Titian centerpiece in the middle of the Basilica was covered up with a fake for restoration. How did I not notice in person? No wonder I had such a challenge photographing it, whoops!
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Scuola Grande di San Rocco
(As I'm posting my first photo of myself on this vacation, I'd like to point out that this was a time when Rick Steves tours were just starting up following the pandemic, and while some government restrictions were lifting in Italy, masks were required in most places and situations, like museums.)
Art highlights from the Doge Palace.
After lunch, where I accidentally ordered a pizza without tomato sauce (important to know that pizza doesn't automatically have tomato sauce in Italy if it is not stated), I took a quick walk around Museo Correr. Here contemporary art exhibits mixed with classical art in the same rooms. I can tell you I was shocked when I walked into a room and saw pop art of Beyoncé above the sculptures! Afterward, it was time to head back to the Pensione Guerrato Hotel for the tour to start!
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Tour Begins
At 4 pm, we gathered at the breakfast room of our hotel for orientation. There we met Margaret, our tour guide, who passed out our classic Rick Steves tour radios (which help keep everyone connected to our guide as we walk the city.) We introduced ourselves to each other, and picked our buddies (a helpful tactic so we don't get left behind.) I happened to be the youngest traveler by quite a bit, but I still made friends quickly, including a pair of awesome ladies named Jen and Shelly who I still keep in touch with to this day! I did not take out my camera during orientation and snap a bunch of pictures of my fellow travelers, but I did take a photo as I was introduced to the lovely hotel dog-employee, Olivia. The hotel I stayed at on my Paris tour also had a hotel dog, and I am liking this trend!
That night, we went to our first group dinner at a nearby cozy restaurant featuring pasta and panna cotta. I sat at a table with our guide Margaret, who gave me a nice summary of her life and perspective. After dinner, some of the group trooped over to view St. Mark's Square at night, the rest of us went back to our hotel to rest up for our next day. |
In the morning, we took a walking tour with a local guide around Venice, going through the fish market near our hotel (where they have been holding that same market for hundreds of years), and then weaving through the old neighborhoods, learning about the history of the streets we were walking and the old homes still standing to this day. I admit I strayed a bit to take photos, but that's exactly why we use radios on the tour. You can still listen to your guide even if you're a little farther away from them, getting some good shots.
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We ended our tour at St. Mark's Square, and then broke up for lunch. Many of us had tickets that afternoon for St. Mark's Basilica, so we stayed around to eat. I joined Jen and Shelly to share a pizza at an outdoor table at a nearby cafe, and one of the wildest parts of the trip happened right there. A rat (thankfully, not pictured) ran out of the shop across from the cafe with the shopkeeper yelling wildly. One of our waiters ran over and immediately started, shall we say, 'taking care' of the rat by bludgeoning it with a broom and then throwing a bag over it. All the while, we at the table were shocked, cringing, and squealing, and then eventually laughing over what had occurred. The meal came with a free show. Anyway, here's a photo of me beside a gondola dock after lunch while waiting for my ticket time at St. Mark's.
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St. Mark's Basilica was incredible. I was glad I didn't really know what to expect walking in because the surprise was part of the magic! It was one of the most beautiful interiors I'd ever seen, one big golden mosaic. Pictures don't do it justice.
What was really amazing to me as a cartoonist was seeing how the mosaics appeared to be the cartooning equivalent of hundred of years ago. I loved the way the human figures were simplified down to just simple blocks of colors and given such expressive faces. I truly fell in love with their stylization. |
A few of my favorite mosaics at St. Mark's Basilica.
Many of us on the tour sat on the roof of St. Mark's Basilica for a nice rest and to watch the clockwork mechanism ring the hour across the square, but soon enough it was time to return to the hotel and gather up again for another activity, the evening gondola ride. Margaret surprised us with a musical duo who joined our gondola parade and serenaded us as we cruised down the canals. We were quite the sight! Other tourists gathered on the bridges as we passed underneath them to take photos and videos of our musical guests.
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The next day, we went to the Gallerie dell'Accademia museum where we received a guided tour of the museum's Venetian Renaissance artwork with a local guide. As always, I went about photo-documenting the artwork. I am drawn to works with dynamic figures, curious expressions, and textures that seem almost impossibly difficult to paint (like the dress directly below.) I always hope that if I study these sorts of works, I can soak up a little artistic knowledge for myself!
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For our last big activity in Venice, we took a cruise across the lagoon to two different islands. We all packed into a private boat that took us first to the colorful and charming paintbox that is Burano, where all the houses, shops, and restaurants are painted in bright Easter egg colors. I can definitely say Burano is not a sight to be missed!
After enjoying time for lunch, gelato, and a nice walk around the island, we got back on the boat to head to our second destination, Torcello. Torcello was one of the first islands populated by the Venetian people and it's famous for its cathedral built in 639, one of the oldest buildings in the area. Margaret led us on a nice walk to the church, where those who were brave enough climbed the bell tower and the rest of us simply enjoyed the scenery down below.
Then it was back on the boat to Venice, where we could enjoy our last meal there on our own. After a quick but delicious stop at a pizzeria, it was time to pack up and be ready to say goodbye to Venice the next morning.
But before we go, let me introduce the first of three important awards I have to give out... |
Best Gelato Award:
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